This article first appeared in print in issue 27 of Supper. Subscribe here.
British chef Simon Rogan hit the headlines this year when his Lake District restaurant L’Enclume won a coveted third Michelin star – but his culinary empire stretches from London to Hong Kong. Here, he shares a snapshot of his life in food.
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When did you first fall in love with cooking?
My dad worked in wholesale fruit and veg when I was growing up; most evenings he would come home with a box of weird and wonderful produce, so early on I developed an interest in seasonal ingredients.
What’s your favourite hotel restaurant?
The Pig in Brockenhurst, in the New Forest, UK. Their ethos is very similar to what we do at L’Enclume – it’s unpretentious cooking in a beautiful location.
Restaurant dining or room service?
Restaurant dining.
What’s your favourite dish, and who cooks it?
My favourite dish is a fragrant Thai green curry. My wife Penny, my son Michael and I all love to make it. We’re quite competitive when it comes to deciding whose is the best…I think it’s mine!
And something to drink with that?
Has to be a Singha beer.
It’s Sunday evening at home: who’s cooking and what’s on the menu?
Most Sundays it’s a full roast dinner with all the trimmings, usually cooked by Penny or myself. The kind of roast that when you’re finished, you have to lie down for half an hour!
What’s your go-to cooking soundtrack?
My taste is pretty eclectic, but I have quite a few friends who are DJs so I listen to a lot of house music.
Which chefs have inspired you?
Marc Veyrat – his use of foraged ingredients from the mountains around Annecy in France has really inspired the approach at my restaurants. I had the most memorable meal of my life at one of his restaurants, La Ferme de Mon Père, in Megève.
Where do you get the creative inspiration for your dishes?
A massive part of what guides are menus is what is thriving at Our Farm [Rogan’s farm in Cartmel Valley, in the heart of the Lake District, which provides the ingredients for his dishes]. When a particular ingredient is tasting its best, it goes on the menu.
Which new restaurant are you eager to try out?
Moxie in Hong Kong. It’s a new restaurant by a great friend of mine, Shane Osborn. The menu is vegetable-centred with a focus on sustainability.
How often do you dine out?
Not as much as I’d like to. But I had a fantastic meal at Brat in London recently with my team.
Are you an easygoing or a demanding diner?
I’m very easygoing. When I go out to eat, I’m there to relax, not to be judgemental or demanding.
Healthy dishes or full-fat indulgence?
Full fat indulgence.
Sweet or savoury?
Savoury.
Who is your favourite person to cook for?
Other than guests, it’s my wife Penny. I find cooking for her at home really relaxing.
Which cookbooks can we find on your shelf?
There’s Herbs, Spices and Flavourings by Tom Stobart, Food for Free by Richard Maybey and White Heat by Marco Pierre White. I also have Essential Cuisine by Michel Bras, and Great Chefs of France by Anthony Blake and Quentin Crewe.
Which city is food heaven for you?
Hong Kong, because it’s constantly evolving with new food places popping up every day. From fine-dining to the street food scene, it has it all.
